- Take out your jumper cables.
It's a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don't have jumper cables, you have to find a good Samaritan who not only is willing to assist you but who has jumper cables as well.
- Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
Engage both parking brakes as well.
- Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery.
It has "POS" or "+" on it, or it's bigger than the negative terminal.
- Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.
- Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the otherbattery.
- Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn't near the battery.
Tires all look sort of the same…round and black…and people tend to think tires don’t change much over the years. That’s really not true, though – engineers and designers are constantly working on advances in tire designs for more miles, better fuel economy and better performance.
Here’s a rundown of current trends in tire technology you may not have been aware of:
1. With the engine running, does the compressor clutch engage when the A/C is switched on? If it does not, this usually indicates a low (or empty) refrigerant condition, or an electrical problem. Also, listen for rapid clicking or cycling noises at the compressor when the A/C is switched on. If this is happening, it could also indicate low refrigerant or some other problems
2. Is the A/C system blowing cold air? Luke warm air or air that is barely cooled at all could indicate a low refrigerant charge in the A/C system. Pressure gauges can be used to check the refrigerant charge. If low, add refrigerant to bring the system up to full charge.
3. With the engine running and the A/C switched off, listen for knocking or rumbling sounds in the vicinity of the compressor. These could indicate a failing compressor clutch, and/or loose mounting hardware.
4. Are A/C component mounting bolts in place and tightly secured? Nothing loose or rattling around?
5. Are caps installed on the A/C system service ports? This keeps out dirt, and also provides a seal for refrigerant.
6. Check all belts for cracks, wear, and glazing. Have them replaced at the first sign of any of these conditions. Also, check for belts that vibrate while the engine is running and the A/C is on. This may indicate a belt that needs to be tightened, or a defective automatic belt tensioner.
7. Examine all A/C and cooling system hoses for cuts, abrasion, weak spots, and signs of leakage. Leakage from A/C system hoses is often indicated by an accumulation of dirt and oil, particularly at connections and fittings.
8. Make sure the condenser (in front of the radiator) is free of any obstructions, such as leaves or insects. This could reduce airflow, resulting in reduced A/C performance. You can rinse the condenser clean with a garden hose.
Over the past several years, the reliability of vehicle charging systems has certainly improved. However, if you own an older vehicle, sooner or later a warning light on your dashboard is going to tell you that the alternator has failed.
Alternators seldom experience a total failure, but the relatively low cost of completely re-conditioned units has virtually eliminated any need for the do-it-yourselfer to try to repair an alternator – they are simply replaced.
Starting in the early 1960s, alternators began to replace generators as the standard means of charging your vehicle's battery. Like generators, alternators are belt driven from the crankshaft pulley of the engine. Today, two basic types of drive belts are used: The V-belt and the serpentine (ribbed) belt. The V-belt belt design predominated until the late 1980s, but today most vehicles use a ribbed, serpentine belt. Since serpentine-belt-driven alternators vary substantially in how the belt is held in "tension," replacement techniques vary quite a bit. This DIY article will concentrate only on the older, V-belt-driven systems.
When replacing the alternator, you will need to decide between purchasing a new alternator from your vehicle's dealership or buying a rebuilt unit from an auto parts store. The cost difference is substantial, so weigh the pluses and minuses before you buy.
Park your vehicle inside or outside in a well-lighted, well-ventilated, level area. Locate the alternator under the hood in the engine compartment. Here are some hints:
Once you have located your vehicle's alternator, carefully note how it is attached to the engine. There should be two points where the alternator is bolted to the engine (one that allows the alternator to swivel or swing to vary the tension on the V-belt, the other, usually a curved bracket with a long slotted hole in it, that limits the amount of swivel and locks the alternator in place).
Make sure you can reach these bolts with either socket or combination wrenches. In many cases you must use two wrenches – one on each side of the bolt – to loosen it. If the bolts/nuts appear to be corroded, test your ability to free them.
If you cannot locate the alternator, reach the attachment bolts or free the nuts, stop and let a professional technician handle the job.
Paws for Veterans is a 501(c) 3 non-profit organization. We provide our nations combat injured Heroes that suffer with Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder, Traumatic Brain Injury, and affiliated physical disabilities with task trained medical service dogs as well as supplies, therapeutic group sessions, and natural treatment alternatives. Our program delivers an all-around lifelong support system focusing on a more natural alternative to healing our Veterans bodies and minds while at the same saving the lives of shelter dogs that would otherwise be facing euthanasia. We strive to improve the lives of our nations Heroes as well as the lives of dogs sitting in shelters waiting for someone to give them another chance at life. Each dog is rescued, rehabilitated, trained, and re-homed with a Veteran that needs and loves them. This wonderful program creates a scenario where everyone wins because multiple lives are saved. The dogs are given a purpose in a loving forever home and the Veterans quality of life is drastically improved with the medical assistance and by the healing power of their new canine partner.
What sets Paws for Veterans apart is that every dog is individually task trained for their owner’s specific disability as required by the Department of Justice Americans with Disabilities Act Laws requires. Our dogs are not simply obedience trained pets, emotional support animals, or therapy animals. The dogs that we provide to Veterans are true “service dogs”. Each Paws for Veterans dog is trained in specific tasks that help their owner with their disability. Examples of such tasks are: waking from nightmares, reminding to take medications, physically interrupting panic attack to stop it from escalating and then physically slowing the owner’s heart rate to bring anxiety level down, and relieving muscle pain caused by elevated stress and anxiety. Each Veteran assists in the training of their own dog which is required in psychiatric service dog training as no one can exactly replicate someone else’s symptoms, reactions, and body chemicals. This method in turn creates a stronger bond between the Veteran and their service dog as well as giving the Veteran the exciting feeling of accomplishment as they were a major part of teaching their service dog. These 2 points combined is what makes our methods and program so successful at truly helping our Nations Heroes with the medical disabilities.
If you drive a car with any regularity, you’re going to get a flat. It’s not a question of if it’ll happen, but when.
1. Make sure you’ve got a proper jack, wrench and spare in your vehicle. When the inevitable happens, throw on your hazard lights and find a safe place to pull off—avoid steep hills and curves.
2. Pop off your hubcap if necessary. Now grab your lug wrench and get ready to flex your muscles. Start by loosening each lug nut (by turning counter clockwise) but not removing them altogether. Keep the car on the ground for this step as you might need some leverage—there’s no shame in using both hands and a foot if necessary.
3. Now it’s time to raise the car. A jack always comes with your car’s spare kit, but it’s not a bad idea to upgrade. Every make and model has a different recommended spot to put the jack so be sure to consult your owner’s manual. Raise the car to about six inches—or the length of a one dollar bill.
4. Finish removing the lug nuts. Keep each nut in a safe place (like your over-turned hubcap) because there’s no fun in a roadside lug nut scavenger hunt.
5. Remove the flat by pulling straight out and away from the car. Swap the flat for your spare.
6. Line up the holes in the spare with the lug nut posts on the car, then push the tire in toward the car as far as it will go.
7. Start replacing the bolts. Stop once each bolt is snug but not tight.
8. Using the jack, carefully lower the car back to the ground.
9. Tighten the lug nuts incrementally in a top-to-bottom, side-to-side pattern until each bolt is as tight as you can safely turn it.
10. Pop on the hubcap, place the jack, flat tire and all your tools back in your spare kit.
11. Go about your way, but first make a note to pick up a new spare.
Whether you have recessed lock buttons or you have simply given up on previous attempts to get into your locked car, it may be time to call in the professionals. A reputable local locksmith is a great way to get the help you need quickly. Let’s say that you’ve had the misfortune of locking yourself out of your vehicle at 2 a.m. An emergency locksmith may be your best bet in this particular situation, as they are usually on call 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Riggs Roadside Assistance is available for any lock emergency 24-7.
If locking yourself out of your car is a regular occurrence for you, you might want to consider the following: